Loop & Linen

Pattern 6 of 12 Β· Intermediate Β· To Wear

The Everyday Beanie

A flat circle that stops at the right moment

Design illustration. Colours and drape will vary with your yarn β€” this is a rendering of the design, not a photograph of a finished piece.

The full pattern is free to read right here. The printable PDF β€” with the stitch chart, the schematic and a one-page quick reference card β€” comes as part of the twelve-pattern collection.
See the collection
Machine-verified. Every stitch count here is checked by script against its own instruction, across every size. This design has not yet been test-crocheted β€” if you make it, we'd genuinely like to hear how it went. What this means

About this pattern

A hat is a flat circle that stops growing. You increase until the circle is as wide as the top of a head, then simply stop increasing β€” and the fabric has nowhere to go but downwards. That single idea is the whole of crown shaping, and once you have it you can make a hat in any yarn, at any gauge, for any head.

This one is worked top-down in continuous rounds, which means no joins and no seam β€” just a smooth spiral. It finishes with a ridged brim worked in back loops only for grip and stretch, and a single decrease round that snugs the brim so the hat stays put.

What this pattern teaches you

  • Working in continuous rounds with a stitch marker
  • Increasing evenly to keep a circle flat
  • Knowing when to stop increasing β€” crown shaping
  • Decreasing with hdc2tog
  • Reading a sizing table and working one size from three

Skills you'll own by the end

chschdcdcBLOmagic ringclusterscontinuous roundsincreasingdecreasingcrown shaping

Before you start: Patterns 1–5. You need the magic ring and hdc; continuous rounds and decreasing are new here.

Materials

YarnWorsted weight (Category 4) wool or wool blend. Roughly 150 m / 165 yd for the child size, 180 m / 197 yd for adult L β€” one 100 g ball covers any size. Wool has the memory to keep the brim snug; pure acrylic will stretch out over time.
Hook5.5 mm (US I-9)
NotionsStitch marker (essential, not optional), tapestry needle, scissors, tape measure

Gauge

12 hdc Γ— 9 rounds = 10 cm / 4 in worked in the round

This hat has to fit a head, and unlike the ear warmer it cannot be adjusted after the fact. Work a flat swatch in rows, or better, make the first six rounds of the crown and measure the circle across: at Round 6 (48 sts) it should be about 13 cm wide. If it is not, change hook size before you go any further.

Choose your size

Three sizes, following Craft Yarn Council head measurements. Instructions give the child size first, with adult S/M and adult L in brackets: 56 (64, 72).

SizeFits headBody stsFinished circumferenceHeight
Child48–52 cm / 19–20Β½ in5646.5 cm / 18ΒΌ in19.5 cm / 7ΒΎ in
Adult S/M54–58 cm / 21¼–22ΒΎ in6453.5 cm / 21 in21.5 cm / 8Β½ in
Adult L59–62 cm / 23¼–24Β½ in7260 cm / 23Β½ in23 cm / 9 in

Finished circumference is deliberately smaller than the head it fits. A hat needs negative ease of 2–4 cm to stay on; the fabric stretches to make up the difference.

Finished measurements

Adult S/M: 53.5 cm circumference Γ— 21.5 cm tall (21 in Γ— 8Β½ in). See the sizing table for all three.

The finished hat. The brim is worked in back loops only and pulled in by one decrease round.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

chchain
scsingle crochet
hdchalf double crochet
hdc2toghalf double crochet 2 together (a decrease)
incincrease β€” 2 hdc in the same stitch
decdecrease
sl stslip stitch
BLOback loop only
MRmagic ring
st(s)stitch(es)
rndround
reprepeat

Special stitches

Continuous rounds and the stitch marker

In Pattern 5 each round was joined and closed. Here you simply keep going: the last stitch of a round is followed immediately by the first stitch of the next, spiralling upwards. It gives a smooth fabric with no seam line.

The cost is that there is nothing to tell you where a round begins. Put a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round and move it up as you start each new one. Without it you will lose your place, and with a hat that means a crown that goes lopsided.

Increase (inc) and decrease (hdc2tog)

An increase is simply two stitches worked into one stitch of the round below. That is all β€” it adds one to your count.

A decrease joins two stitches into one. For hdc2tog: yarn over, insert the hook in the next stitch and pull up a loop; yarn over, insert the hook in the following stitch and pull up a loop β€” five loops on the hook β€” then yarn over and pull through all five. It removes one from your count.

There is exactly one decrease round in this pattern, at the brim, and its job is to pull the opening in slightly so the hat grips.

Instructions

The crown

Worked in continuous rounds from the top of the head downwards. Eight increases per round keeps the circle flat β€” half double crochet needs eight, not the six a single crochet circle uses, or the crown will ruffle. Move your marker at the start of every round.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, then work 8 hdc into it. Pull the tail to close. Place your stitch marker in the first of these 8 stitches now.
8 (8, 8) hdc
Rnd 2: 2 hdc in each st around.
16 (16, 16) hdc
Rnd 3: [Hdc in next st, inc] rep 8 times.
24 (24, 24) hdc
Rnd 4: [Hdc in next 2 sts, inc] rep 8 times.
32 (32, 32) hdc
Rnd 5: [Hdc in next 3 sts, inc] rep 8 times.
40 (40, 40) hdc
Rnd 6: [Hdc in next 4 sts, inc] rep 8 times.
48 (48, 48) hdc
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Rnd 6
Lay the circle flat and measure across it: about 13 cm. It should lie flat like a coaster, not cup upwards and not ruffle at the edge. Cupping means too few increases; ruffling means too many. This is the round to fix it β€” everything above depends on this circle being right.
Rnd 7: [Hdc in next 5 sts, inc] rep 8 times. The child size has now reached its full width.
56 (56, 56) hdc
Rnd 8: Child: hdc in each st around. Adult S/M and L: [hdc in next 6 sts, inc] rep 8 times.
56 (64, 64) hdc
Rnd 9: Child and Adult S/M: hdc in each st around. Adult L: [hdc in next 7 sts, inc] rep 8 times. All three sizes are now at their final stitch count and no further increases are worked.
56 (64, 72) hdc
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Rnd 9
Measure the circle across: roughly 15 cm (17 cm, 19 cm) for your size. Multiply by 3.14 and you should land close to the finished circumference in the sizing table. If the circle is too small the hat will be tight; add one more increase round and accept a slightly larger hat.

The body

No more increases. The fabric now turns downwards on its own and forms the sides of the hat.

Rnds 10–15 (10–16, 10–17): Hdc in each st around. Six rounds for the child size, seven for adult S/M, eight for adult L. Try the hat on here β€” it should reach just above the ears before the brim starts.
56 (64, 72) hdc
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Rnds 10–15 (10–16, 10–17)
Put it on. The hat should currently sit about 2–3 cm above the ears, because the brim will add roughly 4.5 cm more. If it is already covering the ears, skip straight to the brim; if it looks short, add another round or two. Rounds are cheap β€” a hat that does not fit is not.

The brim

One decrease round to snug the opening, then four rounds in back loops only, which gives the brim its ridges, its grip and its stretch.

Rnd 16 (17, 18): [Hdc in next 12 (14, 16) sts, hdc2tog] rep 4 times. Four decreases, evenly spaced. This pulls the brim in by about 3 cm so the hat grips rather than slides.
52 (60, 68) hdc
Rnds 17–20 (18–21, 19–22): Hdc in BLO of each st around. Four rounds. Each one leaves a raised ridge on the outside β€” the same back-loop-only trick you learned on the scarf, now worked in the round.
52 (60, 68) hdc
Finish: Sl st in the next st to level off the spiral, then fasten off, leaving a 15 cm tail. That final slip stitch stops the spiral ending in a visible step.

Stitch chart

Read this chart from the centre outwards, the same way you worked it. You can see the eight increase points radiating out like spokes β€” that even spacing is the whole trick. Bunch the increases together and you get a hexagon instead of a circle.

The crown, Rounds 1–7. Each round adds eight stitches, spaced evenly, which is what keeps the circle flat.

Finishing

Weave in both tails on the inside. The tail at the crown should be worked around the magic ring a couple of times before weaving, so the centre can never open up.

No blocking needed. If the hat feels slightly small, wear it β€” wool relaxes to the head within an hour and settles at its true size.

If you want a pom-pom, make or buy one and sew it to the crown through the magic ring centre, which is the strongest point on the whole hat.

If something has gone wrong

My crown is ruffling and will not lie flat.

Too many increases for the stitch height. Check you are working eight per round and not more, and that you have not accidentally continued increasing past your size's final round. A ruffled crown cannot be blocked out β€” it must be unpicked.

My crown is cupping upwards like a bowl.

Too few increases, or your tension is tight. A little cupping at Round 8 is fine and even desirable β€” it is becoming a hat. Serious cupping by Round 5 means you have missed increases.

I have lost track of where the round starts.

This is what the stitch marker is for, and it is why it is listed as essential. If you have lost your place, count backwards from the working stitch to find your last increase, and re-place the marker. Then move it every single round.

The hat is the right width but too shallow.

Add more rounds in the body section before the brim. The round counts given are for average head depth, and heads vary far more in depth than in circumference.

The brim is too loose and the hat slides up.

Work a second decrease round before the back-loop rounds, using [hdc in next 11 (13, 15) sts, hdc2tog] rep 4 times. This is also worth doing if you are using acrylic, which has less memory than wool.

Caring for your finished piece

Wool: hand wash cool, squeeze out the water in a towel, and dry flat β€” stuffing the crown with a rolled towel keeps its shape. Never tumble dry wool; it will felt and shrink permanently. Acrylic or blend: machine wash cool, dry flat.

What's next

Pattern 7 of 12

Market Tote Bag

Pattern 7 keeps you in the round but changes the shape: an oval base instead of a circle, which is how every bag, slipper and sole is built. It also introduces openwork β€” a mesh of chain spaces that makes a fabric which is mostly holes, stretches to fit a week's shopping, and works up startlingly fast.