Loop & Linen

Pattern 5 of 12 Β· Intermediate Β· Home

Thirty-Six Squares

The granny square, and a baby blanket made of them

Design illustration. Colours and drape will vary with your yarn β€” this is a rendering of the design, not a photograph of a finished piece.

The full pattern is free to read right here. The printable PDF β€” with the stitch chart, the schematic and a one-page quick reference card β€” comes as part of the twelve-pattern collection.
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Machine-verified. Every stitch count here is checked by script against its own instruction, across every size. This design has not yet been test-crocheted β€” if you make it, we'd genuinely like to hear how it went. What this means

About this pattern

Everything so far has been a straight line. This is where you turn the corner β€” literally β€” and start working outwards from a centre point in rounds. The granny square is the oldest and best-loved shape in crochet, and once you can make one you can make a blanket, a cushion, a cardigan or a bag out of nothing else.

One square takes about twenty minutes. That is the quiet genius of this project: it is a large blanket built from pieces small enough to finish in a single sitting, so it never feels like a slog. Thirty-six squares, joined six by six, make a generous pram-sized blanket.

What this pattern teaches you

  • Working in rounds from a magic ring
  • Cluster stitches β€” groups of dc worked into a shared space
  • Changing colour cleanly between rounds
  • Joining motifs together with a slip stitch seam
  • Working a border around a finished piece

Skills you'll own by the end

chschdcdcBLOmagic ringclusterscolour changejoining motifsbordersseaming

Before you start: Patterns 1–4. You need dc from Pattern 3 and a tidy seam from Pattern 4. Everything else here is new.

Materials

YarnWorsted weight (Category 4) acrylic or cotton in 4 colours. Roughly 700 m / 765 yd in total, so about 175 m of each β€” one 100 g ball per colour is comfortable. Acrylic is the usual choice for baby blankets because it washes hot and dries fast.
Hook5.0 mm (US H-8)
NotionsTapestry needle, scissors, tape measure
OptionalStitch markers to keep track of joined rows

Gauge

One finished square = 10.5 cm / 4ΒΌ in across after 4 rounds

For this project, gauge is simply square size. Make one square and measure it before you make thirty-six. If yours comes out at 12 cm, your blanket will finish at 74 cm instead of 65 cm β€” which is fine, but you will need noticeably more yarn than the amount listed above.

Finished measurements

65 cm Γ— 65 cm (25Β½ in Γ— 25Β½ in), including border

Finished blanket: six squares by six, plus a two-round border.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terms.

chchain
scsingle crochet
dcdouble crochet
sl stslip stitch
sp(s)space(s)
st(s)stitch(es)
MRmagic ring
reprepeat
rndround

Special stitches

Magic ring (MR)

An adjustable loop that lets you work the first round into a hole you then pull completely shut β€” so there is no gap in the middle of your square.

Wrap the yarn twice around two fingers, slide the loop off, and hold the crossing point between finger and thumb. Insert your hook into the loop, pull up a strand, and chain one to secure it. Now work the first round's stitches into the loop itself, over both strands. When the round is done, pull the loose tail and the hole closes.

If you find the magic ring frustrating on the first try β€” and many people do β€” ch 4 and join with a sl st to the first chain instead, then work Round 1 into that small ring. It leaves a tiny hole in the centre and is otherwise identical. Nobody will ever notice on a finished blanket.

The first round is worked over both strands of the loop, then the tail is pulled to close it.

Cluster (3-dc group)

The entire granny square is made of one repeating unit: three double crochets worked into the same space. That is all a cluster is.

Because all three share one space, they fan out slightly and leave a gap on either side β€” and those gaps become the spaces the next round is worked into. This is why the square grows outward so quickly, and why it has its characteristic open, airy look.

Instructions

The square β€” make 36

Worked in rounds, joining and turning at the end of each. Change colour every round for a classic look, or work each square in a single colour β€” both are shown in the photo styling notes.

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Pull the tail to close the ring. Four clusters and four ch-2 corner spaces. If you are changing colour, fasten off here.
12 dc
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Rnd 1
You should have a small square with a hole-free centre, four clusters of 3 dc, and four chain spaces at the corners. It will look more like a flower than a square at this stage β€” that is correct, and it squares up on Round 2.
Rnd 2: Join the new colour in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp; [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp] 3 times, ch 1. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Every corner now carries two clusters with a ch-2 between them. That ch-2 is what turns the corner.
24 dc
Rnd 3: Join the new colour in any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp; *ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp*; rep from * twice more, then ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1. Join with sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. From here the pattern is fixed: two clusters in every corner space, one cluster in every side space.
36 dc
Rnd 4: Work as Round 3, but with two ch-1 sps and two side clusters along each side: ch 3, 2 dc in same corner sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp; *[ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] twice, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner sp*; rep from * twice more, then [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp] twice, ch 1. Join with sl st. Fasten off. Sixteen clusters: two at each corner, two along each side. Leave a 15 cm tail β€” it is easier to weave in before joining than after.
48 dc
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Rnd 4
Measure the square: it should be about 10.5 cm across and genuinely square, not diamond-shaped. Count one side β€” you should find four clusters. Make this one square completely, measure it, and only then make the other thirty-five. Discovering a sizing problem after square thirty-six is the single most demoralising thing that can happen in this project.

Joining the squares

Lay all 36 squares out in a 6 Γ— 6 grid on the floor and arrange the colours until you like them. Take a photo before you pick anything up β€” you will not remember the layout otherwise.

Step 1: Place two squares with right sides together. Join yarn through both corner spaces, then sl st through both squares in each corresponding stitch along the edge, finishing through both corner spaces at the far end. Fasten off. Work into both loops of both squares. Keep the slip stitches loose β€” a tight join makes a stiff ridge and puckers the blanket.
Step 2: Join all six squares of each row to each other in this way, making six long strips. Do all the strips first. It is much easier than trying to join in both directions at once.
Step 3: Join the six strips to each other in the same way, matching seams carefully at every crossing point. At each crossing, put your hook through the seam of the strip below so the joins line up. Misaligned crossings are the most visible flaw in a granny blanket.
βœ“ Checkpoint β€” after Step 3
Spread the blanket out. It should measure roughly 63 cm square, lie flat, and have all its seam crossings meeting neatly. Slight waviness at this stage is normal and the border will pull it in.

The border

Two rounds of single crochet to tidy the edge and square the whole thing up. Use whichever colour you want to frame the blanket.

Rnd 1: Join yarn in any corner ch-2 sp of the blanket. Ch 1, then work sc evenly all the way around: 1 sc in each dc, 1 sc in each ch-1 sp, 1 sc in each seam between squares, and 3 sc in each of the four blanket corner spaces. Join with sl st to the first sc. If your count comes out a few stitches either side of 392, that is fine β€” what matters is that all four sides have the same number.
392 sc
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the centre sc of each corner. Join with sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. Each corner turns one stitch into three, adding two stitches per corner and eight in total.
400 sc

Stitch chart

This is your first chart worked in the round, and it is read from the centre outwards. Follow one round at a time and you will see the structure immediately: clusters, spaces, and two clusters wherever the work turns a corner.

All four rounds of the square. Each group of three tall posts is one cluster; the pale ovals are the chain spaces between them.

Finishing

Weave in every end. There will be a great many of them β€” budget an hour, put something on to watch, and work each tail into the back of its own colour so it stays invisible.

Block the finished blanket. Dampen it, lay it out on towels, and ease it into a true square, measuring the diagonals to check. Pin the corners if you have blocking pins. Let it dry completely.

Blocking matters more here than on anything you have made so far: it is what turns thirty-six slightly-different squares into one flat, even blanket.

If something has gone wrong

My squares are all slightly different sizes.

Normal, and it is tension drifting as you relax into the pattern β€” later squares are usually looser than early ones. Blocking evens out small differences. For larger ones, use your loosest squares in the centre and the tightest at the edges, where the border will discipline them.

My square is turning into a circle, not a square.

You are not putting two clusters into the corner spaces. The corners are the only places that get a doubled cluster, and they are what make the corners sharp.

There is a visible hole in the middle of my square.

The magic ring was not pulled fully closed, or the tail has worked loose. Pull the tail firmly, then secure it by weaving it through the backs of the first round's stitches before you trim it.

The blanket is wavy at the edges after joining.

Almost always fixed by the border and blocking. If it is still wavy afterwards, your border round has too many stitches in it β€” try again with fewer stitches per seam.

My joins are stiff and the blanket does not drape.

The slip stitch join is being worked too tightly. Go up a hook size for joining only. The seam should stretch about as much as the fabric on either side of it.

Caring for your finished piece

Acrylic: machine wash warm, tumble dry low β€” which is exactly what you want in something a baby will use. Cotton: machine wash warm, dry flat to keep the shape. Either way, reshape gently while damp. A granny blanket lasts decades if it is not repeatedly tumble dried on high heat.

What's next

Pattern 6 of 12

Everyday Beanie

You can work in rounds now β€” which means you can make things that fit a body. Pattern 6 takes the flat circle you have just learned and stops increasing at exactly the right moment, so it curves into a hat. It also introduces decreasing and a proper sizing table, and it is the first pattern in the collection you will make in three different sizes.